Here’s the fourth and final installment of Inside Scoop’s Locanda mini series. To quickly recap, Locanda is the Mission’s new Roman-inspired restaurant, courtesy of Delfina’s Craig and Anne Stoll. Chef Anthony Strong has already shared the stories behind several dishes on the menu: Amatriciana, Trippa alla Romana, Carciofi alla Giudia. Today, we’re talking meat.
Here’s Anthony’s exegesis of Locanda’s Short Ribs with Chinotto Nero:
Three years ago, Craig mentioned how much he loved the Korean-cut short rib and suggested I go to Korean barbecue to eat as many as I could. They were right up my alley since we frequently give nods to Asian cooking at the Pizzerias, like fish sauce from the Amalfi Coast, Fagiolini alla Cinese, and cucumbers with garum and mint. So I started getting Korean-cut ribs to play around with. As a cook, it was intriguing. I’d made short ribs a million times but always in the typical gringo, big chunks, slow braised fashion, so the idea of developing a quickly grilled Italianized version seemed like a cool concept.
I started researching different Kalbi recipes and noticed a common theme of marinating them in soda and/or kiwi in order to just barely break down the muscle, making them more tender and suitable for a quick cooking method. I’m not a soda drinker by any means. Seriously, I can’t remember the last time I drank a Coca-Cola.
But fast forward to six months ago, I’m working and eating my way through Rome and I started to fall in love with Chinotto Neri, a jet black bitter orange soda that you find in tons of super markets over there. It inspired me to start toying with the notion of marinating the half-inch cut short ribs in the Chinotto.
Then a very close Asian friend of mine informed me that the kiwi was the crucial element in properly marinating the ribs. I thought, “I can’t use kiwi, that’s not even remotely Italian.”
But it just so happens that on a Monday in Rome — when the Osteria de San Cesario was closed — the chef’s son, Emilio, took me to the beach in Anzio for a proper day off. On the two-hour drive to the beach listening to Ennio Morricone’s Spaghetti Western music (Emilio: “You should know this man from San Cesario has composed the most famous of all American western film music.”) I happened to look outside the window and scratching my head realized there were kiwi trees all over the place. This countryside in Lazio was full of kiwis. Emilio, again: “You should know, Anthony, that Lazio is currently largest fastest growing kiwi producer in all of the world.” Bingo.
On Locanda’s Bar Menu we’ll be serving the thinly sliced short ribs having been briefly marinated in chinotto nero and a bit of local kiwi. Just briefly kissed on our wood burning grill, they’ll be served on a few slices of radicchio in anchovy dressing.
This dish is so special because my geeky obsession with Asian food found validation in Roman cooking. Sick.
And now, it’s time to try the restaurant. Best of luck getting a reservation.
· Previously: Locanda Diaries: Anthony Strong explains Locanda’s Amatriciana [Inside Scoop]
· Previously: Locanda Diaries: Anthony Strong on Trippa alla Romana [Inside Scoop]
· Previously: Locanda Diaries: Anthony Strong on Carciofi alla Giudia (Jewish style artichokes) [Inside Scoop]
Locanda: 557 Valencia St., between 16th and 17th; (415) 863-6800 or locandasf.com